Kampot & Kep

We arrived in Kampot after a two hour bus ride from Sihanoukville. The bus was full of westerners and we asked the driver to stop by a group of guesthouses in the town. After looking around a few of them, we chose to stay at the Blissful guesthouse as it was the most lively and was only $5 for a room (plus two free beers).




For lunch we went to Ritikitaki and had beef and chicken skewers in Kampot pepper. The pepper in Kampot is meant to be the best pepper in the world.

It was still raining so Rosie did some washing in a plastic bag and then we went down for tea. We had a few drinks in the bar and met an english girl called Charly who worked behind the bar, she taught us a dice game and we kept on drinking. After her and her boyfriend Chris finished working we went to a bar the other side of town called Madi's. It was a wicked bar full of travelers and we just chatted and played pool.

We didn't feel great the next morning so had a slow start but the rain eased at about lunchtime so we got in a tuk-tuk and went to see the local hydroelectric dam with loads of rapids below it.

We came back to the guesthouse and across the road was a tour company called Sok Lim Tours. We booked a country side tour for the next day, and a bus/boat to Phu Quoc for the day after that, and these were $20 each.

That evening we went to a bar/restaurant called the Rusty Keyhole which is known locally for it's BBQ pork ribs. Rosie order the half rack and I was manly and got the full rack. They were AMAZING! by far the best ribs I have ever eaten. Didnt finish them though.



The rain stopped by the morning of the countryside tour! A guy from the tour company picked us up in his old panda along with this very chatty but nice girl from the USA. He first took us to some salt fields just outside Kampot. There was no salt in the fields due to the wet season, but the store huts were full of salt. I have never seen so much.



We then stopped at a fish sauce factory that stank, but it was interesting to see how they made it, it takes 2 years! On the way to the caves we stopped at a small fishing village.



We then went to a temple cave, I wasn't expecting much but they were probably the best caves that i have ever been to. Although they weren't as impressive as some I have seen, the fact the they weren't set up for tourists and just left in their natural state made them so much better. We walked into them for about 5mins and then we got to this tiny hole which our guide pointed to. The girls didn't want to go in, but because I'm so manly I went and had a look. I just managed to fit through the hole (too many ribs) and it was nearly pitch black on the other-side. I had to use my iPhone light to see anything. I got in a bit further and there were some gaps in the roof above so natural light was filling the cave. There were some huge stalactites and stalacmites. It was such a cool experience.


After the caves we went to a pepper plantation. It was interesting to find out how they grew pepper and how they made the different types.



We then stopped in Kep for lunch. It's quite a dead town but I can see it being more lively in the dry season. We went to Kimly's for lunch and had the green peppered crab. It was so delicious!



The tour included a trip to Rabbit island, but the sea was rough so we asked if we could do the Kampot sunset cruise instead. The boat left at 5 so that gave us a few hours to kill. We went to seeing hands massage 5 and got half an hour back and shoulders. It was so painful but I feel better now.

We then went to meet the boat and had a nice evening on the river.

Sihanoukville

The bus from Chi Phat took a couple of hours and we arrived in Sihanoukville in the monsoon rain. We decided to stay at Serendipity beach, which is one of the five beaches of Sihanoukville. The bus station is about 15 mins tuk-tuk ride from here. The drivers tried to rip us off and we got a ride for about $3 which is still quite high.

We checked into Coasters which was cool; it has a few bungalows on stilts and it is right on the beach.



We went to a dive shop and asked when the weather would improve, it didn't look good until Monday/Tuesday - 3 days away.

Although Sihanoukville looked like an awesome place, we decided that there was not much point in staying there with the weather the way it was.

We booked the bus to Kampot for the next day.

We went for tea at Happa restaurant, just up the road from the beach. The food was very good, nice prawns!


Rosie had the seafood platter, and I had a chicken dish. Definitely should have had the platter.

Chi Phat

We got up early this morning to catch the 7.45 bus from Phnom Penh to Anduong Tuek. There wasn't room in this bus so we got the 12.45 bus instead and booked it through the okay guesthouse as the guy said the public busses are unreliable and don't always stop at Anduong Tuek.

The bus took 4 hours to get to Andoung Tuek and from there we got a moto-taxi (50cc moped) for about 15km to a small ferry which took us across the river to Chi Phat.

Usually you get the cargo barge up the river which is alot cheaper but you have to get the early bus, which we missed.

Once notorious for it's loggers and poachers, the river village of Chi Phat has a population of about 500 people. It is now home to a community based ecotourism project (CBET), although it is still in it's very early stage of establishing itself .

We got to the village at about 5.30pm and walked through the village looking for the project office. It was shut when we arrived so walked to one of the guesthouses which was very basic. The room had a bed, mosquito net and a fan. What more do you need though?! There was a long drop toilet and a bucket for the shower. The house was very clean and perfectly adequate though.

We had dinner in the restaurant and the woman/cook pointed inside four pots and we chose what we wanted. We stayed safe and had the soup and rice. It was very nice, but I was a bit dubious about the meat in the soup. I think it went cluck, but may have gone woof. It was such a weird experience being in the middle of a forest, probably the most remote place I have ever been, but a few Angkors calmed the nerves.



We had an early night as electricity is only available between 6-11pm and it was good to get to sleep before the fan went off.

The next day it was raining hard, we went back to the restaurant and bought a bunch of bananas for breakfast. The CBET office was now open but they wernt as helpful as we expected. It was a pretty relaxing morning, we just stayed around the house and planned the next few days.

After a lunch of fish, vegetables and rice the rain stopped, and we got a two man kayak and paddled up the river, well I paddled up the river and Rosie took photos. It was amazing! The scenery was awesome and it was interesting to see the locals going about their everyday life. We also saw the ecolodges on the far river bank up stream. We were glad we didn't stay in them, although the looked nice, as they are bit far from everything and you need to get a boat there.



We got back to the guesthouse and had a shower (bucket and water), which was actually really nice and refreshing. That evening we went and had tea in the CBET restaurant.

We left Chi Phat at about 8am again on the moto-taxis and went to the river to get the ferry across. We could see it was docked on the other side and they were having engine problems. We finally got on and started out journey across when the engine cut out again, in the middle of the fast flowing river. We were pretty sure we were going to miss the bus to Sihanoukville but we carried on anyway. The drivers were gunning it back down the track to Andoung Teuk, but after 5km I was certain there was no way we would get the bus. A river had burst its banks and was flowing across the road. My driver didn't seem phased and drove straight in. The bike was half under water and Rosie's stopped in the middle but we made it through and surprisingly made the bus.

Chi Phat was one of the most amazing and eye opening places I have ever been in the world, iv never felt so isolated.

Phnom Penh

We arrived at 10pm at Phnom Penh airport. It was good we got our visas done before we came as the queue was huge. After the initial scare that Rosies bag might have got lost en route, we met our driver and he walked us to his tuk-tuk. It was about a 30min drive to the Okay guest house where we are now staying.

Today we walked to a big market an nearly died of the heat on the way. In the market we both bought a hat, pretty sure we got ripped off as I payed less in Primark.

After the market we got a tuk-tuk to the Wat Phnom, which is a smallish temple on a little hill in the middle of Phnom Penh.



After lunch we took a trip to Tuol Slenj, one of Pol Pots torture prisons. It was pretty grim, there were photos of the dead on the walls and blood still on the ceiling of the prisoners cells.

We had dinner at 54 Langeach Sros (or "Fresh Evening"), it is a cool Khmer beer garden. We had BBQ prawns which we were meant to cook ourselves but i think the waitress felt sorry for our us so she cooked them for us. We also had Morning Glory, which are fried vegetables and these were cooked in snail oil. For main we had grilled pork ribs which were out of this world. They were also a few intriguing tree-ant dishes and frog's legs. Jugs of Angkor, the local beer were only 9,000 riel. Food is much cheaper than chips out here.



We have just had breakfast and we planned to go to Chi Phat but missed the morning bus. We didnt mind as we didnt go to the killing fields yesterday so spent the morning there.


We about to get a bus to Chi Phat, a small village in the jungle. There is no electricity there so see you soon.

Vietnamese Vaccinations

After putting it off long enough I finally had an apointment with the travel nurse to findout what jabs I had previously had and the recomended ones for Vietnam and Cambodia. The recomended ones are:

• Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio
• Hepatitis A
• Typhoid

Optional vaccinations were:

• Rabbies
• Hepatitis B
• Japanese Encephalitis

I also had to decide what Malaria tablets I wanted to take. I decided on Malarone eventhough they are way more expensive, you dont get the side affects that are often assiciated with Doxycycline such as photosensitisation plus it is an antibiotic.